The Heron V2 by GP: Oh. Damn.


The Heron V2 is a tank that’s been around in its current form since December 2015, but has existed in one form or another since 2013, so it’s been around for quite a bit and may not be the newest and shiniest out there, but there are a lot of really great things here.

Heron Height Comparison 2


I purchased this tank for RRP from OughtVape. I ended up getting the bead blasted version because the normal version was out of stock.


  • Price: $140.00 (as tested $175.00)
  • Height: 43mm
  • Diameter: 22mm
  • Volume: 5mL
  • Tank Material: Stainless steel or Ultem
  • Airflow: 0mm-3.5mm


The Heron feels sturdier than I thought it would be. I knew it was all held together with O rings before I bought it, and I thought that they might have a tendency to just come apart whenever, but I haven’t had a single accidental separation with it on the DEV2+ in my pocket yet.

The build deck is…different. Not impossibly different; you can still parse out where things are supposed to go. You know where your terminals are, you know where to position your coil (over the airflow) and your usual bag of tricks will hold up because you (ostensibly) know your stuff like not keeping your coil against any metal.

The positioning of the screws was a little interesting to me, because it is the limiting factor on your coil size. They can’t really be wider than the coils, and diameter can’t get too crazy because you need to keep it lifted, secured in place, and in the right position over your airflow.

Build Deck

Filling up the thing is a standard affair – just pop everything apart upside-down (be sure the chamber cap doesn’t come with the top of your tank!) and fill. You can fill really quickly. Really really quickly.

Airflow control is smooth and easy to dial in. Sometimes when I get it too tight it whistles some, but that’s fairly infrequent.

Everything just feels good. Whether it’s taking the base apart to check your serial number to register or just cleaning it, the Heron feels great and it feels like a premium piece of machinery.

I find the Heron extremely attractive. I use the Ultem tank almost exclusively, and I really love how it looks. The gentle slope on the top is fantastic, and I thought the included Teflon drip tip would clash, but it just works in its own way. The aeolipile logo isn’t in your face, but it lets you know where this came from and who made it.

The Build

There are a variety of builds out there for the Heron, and a lot of people get them to work. I’ve only been able to get one build in there working to my liking, and that’s the only build I’ll be addressing.

Disassemble the tank completely. Remove the chamber cap and collar from the deck.

What you should be looking at.
What you should be looking at.

The first place to start is with the coil diameter. Because of the way wicking works out, your coil diameter is incredibly important. 2mm is the only diameter I have gotten to work consistently at any given liquid ratio (50/50 to max VG).

Once you’ve mounted your coil and made sure it’s raised from the deck and not shorting out on the posts (which can be difficult), pull some of your wicking material through. I prefer Fiber Freaks Cotton Blend Density 2. I just have a good time with it and prefer it some to regular cotton.

Pull your wick tails together and put them through the deck collar and screw the collar back on.

Build Deck & Collar 2
With the collar screwed on.

Stretch your tails out so they go past the collar. Take your flathead screwdriver and poke them down just to make a little divot so you have some contact with the deck to soak up the extra.

Get the wick a little wet with your liquid of choice to help collapse things down a little bit and press your chamber cap back on capturing the wick in the wick holes in the cap. They should fit inside perfectly.

This is the important part. If you’re struggling to get your cap on there, you’re probably using too much wick and should readjust or twist the tails again to get it fitting back into the cap.

It can be a tight fit.
It can be a tight fit.

Once your cap is secured, trim your tails as flush as you can to your cap and poke them just a little in there. Just a little so it’s still poking out some, but it will improve wicking dramatically.

Fill up your tank, take a few primer puffs, and you’re set to go!

I know Qorax Stan has a variety of build videos, one of which includes mesh (that I haven’t gotten around to trying), but if you want to check out some alternative builds, his channel is really worth checking out.


The Heron performs spectacularly. It really does. Because it’s a relatively short tank, it is a really warm experience. The flavor from the tiny chamber really shines through and makes some budget liquids taste fabulously.

When I was still figuring out the wicking, I got a lot of leaking and burbliness, but once I had it figured out it has run perfectly from full to empty every time. No moisture around the base, no leaking from the AFC, no nothing. Just warm, delicious liquid straight to my mouth.

I genuinely haven’t been happier with a tank since I moved from a Russian 91% to a Squape R. EVL Reaper included.

“Oh. Damn” is right for a tank that’s cheaper than those two.


In the world of authentic and high end atties, the Heron V2 is not a super expensive tank. $140.00 is, however, quite a bit in the mainstream market, and for many it is a decent hunk of change. In the higher end zone, though, the Heron absolutely wrecks the price-performance curve. The Squape R/R[S] is what has set this curve for me back in 2014. The Heron has all the things that made the Squape great and improves on size/volume ratio, volume in general, finer AFC adjustment, ease of filling, and solid TC.

I had had a couple of days where the chamber chimney would just come off with the tank section whenever I went to refill it, but that has seemed to stop. Nothing I did seemed to cause or stop it, so maybe it was just a fluke caused by O rings wearing in unevenly. It hasn’t come up again, but I did want to let you know about that.

The Heron is one of those tanks that really kind of invalidates the ones around it at their current prices. If the Hurricane dropped $20 at retail and had cheaper replacement bits, then it would be on par, same for the Reaper (except the replacement parts). The Pico is more attractive, but the performance doesn’t really justify the price now that the Heron V2 is out and about. It really disrupts the curve, and that’s always a good thing.

Who is it for?

Besides everyone I would have to say the Heron V2 by GP is for people who:

  • Want restricted lung or MTL vapes.
  • Who want a really warm, even hot, vape.
  • Are alright with vaping 5mL at a time.
  • Are looking for a strong TC RTA.

The Heron V2 really is a stupendous atomizer, and I can’t recommend it enough. Its nearest competition will be the Kayfun 5 by Svoemesto, but we’ll see if it lies on the line, falls off, or even contends! I wouldn’t hesitate recommending this atomizer to anyone.

Heron Ultem Heron Steel Heron Height Comparison Heron Height Comparison 2 Build Deck Build Deck 2 Build Deck & Collar Build Deck & Collar 2 Build Deck & Cap Base interior Atomizer chamber

The EVL Reaper RTA Review: Don’t Fear the Flavor


Disclosure: I purchased this atomizer for RRP after waiting for a few months for my list spot to pull through!

Let’s do some specs before getting into this:


  • Price: $200.00 (as tested: $270.00)
  • Height: 52mm/45mm (mini)
  • Diameter: 22mm tapering to 21mm
  • Volume: 3.5mL/2mL (mini)
  • Tank Material: Pyrex glass or titanium
  • Airflow: 2x0mm to 2×2.5mm
Oh no, there goes Tokyo
Oh no, there goes Tokyo

The EVL Reaper is a difficult atomizer to review. It is expensive. Real expensive. The base kit is $200 at the time of writing with the exchange rates. The full kit with drip tips, stand, and mini kit was $300 shipped. That’s a lot of dough for an atomizer.

But let’s break it down and compare it to the Hurricane: the Hurricane’s base price is around $170.00, and a pyrex kit is going to be $35.00 on top of that, so the base kit is already making a pretty good case for itself. In addition to that, you get a metal tank section as well, which costs $30.00 at the time of writing. You’re coming up a little ahead at this point compared to the Hurricane at the base kit price, so that’s pretty good.

The mini kit, pair of drip tips, and atomizer stand and shipping all come up to about $100 on top of that, which is toootally fine by me. All at once, it’s a big price to pay, but when you break it down to its components and compare it to the competition, then things are looking pretty good. If performance is comparable, then we’re in a pretty good place! I lose sight of the price breakdown pretty frequently, and that was contributing a lot to the difficulty of this review.

One last thing to note before moving on is that this atomizer is made from Grade 2 titanium and chemistry grade borosilicate glass.


I opened up the bubble mailer once it arrived and saw a really neat packaging setup.  There were two packages – a tall metal cylinder (a portent of what was yet to come) and a smaller puck of a tin.  I removed the plastic cap and the cylinder was sealed with a pull-tab lid!  I’d never had a canned atomizer before and eagerly tore it wide open.

There is a lot of cotton padding in there.  A lot.  A lot a lot.  There is probably about half a bag of Japanese cotton pads in there, and that largely ensured that my atomizer arrived safely.  Buried within the cotton were the atomizer, tank sections, and a bunch of spares.  I put the cotton and spares aside and set to work.

Everything inside except all the cotton. So much cotton...
Everything inside except all the cotton. So much cotton…

The Reaper is not a handsome atomizer. I’m going to get that out of the way right now. It looks a little lanky and doesn’t have anything exceptional going for it appearance wise. The Reaper is a beast purely of function. An aftermarket top cap would really do this thing a lot of favors, and if possible shortening up the base because he is a tall boy.

The airflow is controlled by two screws on the base, and this is a bit of a negative for me. I like easy to access airflow with discrete options (as one finds in the Squape R series and the Hurricane). This also contributes to the empty kind of space going on with the base – there isn’t much to break up how plain it looks.

The two airflow screws.
The two airflow screws.

The build deck is very clean. Mine was missing a screw when it came in, but John was quite responsive about getting it replaced and the next time I need an order he is throwing in a spares pack. That is one thing that doesn’t get a ton of space in a lot of my reviews – John, even months before I purchased the Reaper, was always responsive and willing to shoot the breeze with me about this atomizer, which was fabulous and a real treat for me. He even helped get some of the specs for me to put up in my earlier section!

The deck.
The deck.  It had been used by the time I took this photo.

Building is dead simple. Just mount the coil and drape your wicking material over the wicking holes! No need to jam anything anywhere or anything like that. It’s handled regular and twisted wire quite capably, and I’ve seen a few Clapton coils in pictures on Facebook that appear to be working quite nicely as well!

Filling up the Reaper is a simple affair, just twist off the top cap while holding the liquid flow control and fill it up as you do on your usual tanks. It’s quick and easy!

Everything threads together smoothly. There isn’t really a hint of crunchiness anywhere, which is nice, and the threading is large enough that it doesn’t really take much of a starter turn counterclockwise to find its catch anywhere.

Swapping between the standard and mini kits is pretty quick, too! Just unscrew the top cap, remove the long tank, swap in the chimney, and install the mini glass. If you don’t get the glass installed correctly, it can get screwed in a little crooked. Ensuring that it’s evenly and tightly installed will make life so much easier – if you don’t, you pretty much have to fiddle with it every time you refill.

The mini kit accessories.
The mini kit accessories.  Less blurry in real life.

The included drip tips are going to get a quick mention here. Well, one of them is at least. I put the vase drip tip in the Reaper and it hasn’t come out yet. It has fabulous mouthfeel and gets me just like the Sat22 drip tip does – it feels like a cigarette and the flavor is fabulous compared to a lot of the other ones I have. The rest of this review uses that drip tip as the material to gauge performance, so keep that in mind!


The performance is excellent, exactly what you expect from the high end. This is, unlike the Hurricane, a strictly MTL atomizer. You can get some fairly well restricted lung hits from it as it feels just a hair more open than the Squape R wide open, but not by a ton.

I’ve become a little spoiled with flavor – it’s hard to substantially improve flavor on the high end at this stage – it appears that everyone in the space knows what they’re doing and are able to get it right. It’s about the same as the Hurricane, just with less throat hit (the Hurricane is the reason why I dropped to 3mg in the first place), but it is perfectly balanced.

I thought, initially, that I should build the Reaper so that my coil legs were above the actual coil, so it looks like it’s kind of hanging down there, but I got some weird gurgling doing that. It wasn’t quite the right amount of distance away. Turning it right side up (as it were) eliminated the issue handily!

I did get some leaking initially. And it persisted, which I thought was odd, since I wasn’t getting any leaking anywhere else. Turns out I hadn’t adequately rinsed out the base to get rid of that excess liquid.

Temperature control has been…interesting. I’ve been spoiled by the In’Ax for a while with its spot on TC. The temperature of the Reaper is consistent but not <accurate. What I mean by that is I can get it working perfectly fine, but I have to crank my temperature way up (550F) for it to work, where the In’Ax is right in line with real readings. Even at this high setting, I don’t get burned hits or anything and it cuts out when the tank is empty.

Overall, the performance is quite good. It’s a sturdy tank that is providing a sturdy vape.


Everything about the construction is just…nice. It is just a series of little luxuries in plain packaging that is easy to live with. The Reaper doesn’t operate by any special rules, there are no unique considerations you need to make when building it. It just works, and it works damn well.

Who is it for?

The EVL Reaper is for:

  • Someone who wants an extremely flavorful vape.
  • Mouth to lung vapers.
  • People who want a tank of a tank.
  • Folks who don’t mind the looks of the setup.

Relative to the other stuff that’s out there, it performs really well, but I’m having a bit of a hard time recommending it. Between this and the Hurricane? Definitely pick up the Reaper. It’s just a smarter move with all the parts and bits you get for it. If you’re a VW vaper, the Squape R[S] still holds the crown for me on that end, and the price performance is just getting better all the time on it. The EVL Reaper is definitely an excellent tank and depending on the package you get it comes with a load of goodies (relative to the competition it comes with more goodies anyway), but most of all it performs great. It tastes great. It wicks like crazy, and is definitely a tank worth owning in its price stratum.

e: There are a few atomizers coming up in my reviews that may be worth waiting for. I had finished up my main thoughts on this review before really leaning into some other RTAs. A few atomizers (especially the Heron V2) is punching well above its pricing weight, so it may be worth holding off on snatching up an EVL Reaper. I’ll hopefully have that review done soon enough so you can decide for yourself!

Everything inside except all the cotton. So much cotton...

The mini kit accessories.

Reaper 7

The two airflow screws.

Reaper 5 Reaper 4

Oh no, there goes Tokyo

Oh no, there goes Tokyo

The deck.

In’Ax Mk III by Athea Mods: My Angel is the Centerroll


The In’Ax Mk III by Athea Mods is an atomizer that I ended up purchasing because the website said You can’t have it. I’m talking, of course, about the VapinArt website. I wasn’t initially too interested in getting it, but the instant the website started breaking, I couldn’t stop myself. I really wanted it the more the machines said I couldn’t have it.

I ended up accidentally getting a lot.

But fortunately VapinArt was able to fix my order so I only received one very expensive atomizer and accessory instead of three. It would have been really weird to have so many In’Axes. I’m certain I could have found a home for them, but it would have been a bit of a cluster.

So what you can take away from this introduction/disclosure is that I paid RRP from a store and I fought my hardest to defeat the machines. When their uprising is complete, I shall be ready.


  • Price: $184.95 (as tested: $204.45)
  • Height: 30.5mm
  • Diameter: 22mm
  • Volume: 3mL
  • Tank Material: Steel
  • Airflow: 1mm – 6x1mm

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There is quite an environment of accessories that Athea have made for the latest In’Ax at launch. There is a clear PMMA tank that maintains the 3mL capacity and an extra-large metal tank that brings the diameter out to 28.5mm and the total volume to 5mL. My favorite accessory, though is the threaded boulon. More on that bad mama jama later.

The airflow control is adjusted by moving the disc up on top to different settings. It’s easy to see which setting you’re on and it really makes life a breeze. Airflow is easy to adjust, but difficult to move on accident.

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The box was nice! Not like the best thing ever made, but it was nice to have a sturdy branded box. What I did not realize about the box, however, is that the rolling pin gets stuck to the top of the box, so I rolled my mesh around the spare positive pin I got. I found my rolling pin later.

All the threads are super smooth. It’s easy to get everything to catch and it all sits flush. I have a really hard time identifying any seams or anything looking around on the In’Ax Mk III. The machining really is top notch, which ought to be expected for the price (and some other things living at this price point can be difficult to work with).

The In’Ax is also fairly dense feeling. Not super hefty, but it has a healthy weight to it that is reassuring. And that’s…well…reassuring.

The Build

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The build, even with not immediately knowing where my rolling pin was living, was easy as pie! Oxidize your wick as normal (I prefer #200SF for…everything), roll it over the pin and scoot it onto the center post.

Now, the threaded boulon. I don’t like grip sticks, and this accessory is worth much more than the $19.50 it costs because it saves a lot of heartache. It will accommodate 28AWG wire no problem (I haven’t tried anything thicker yet). First, get your wire trapped up top. Then, wrap your wire in the direction the mesh was rolled. I found 4 wraps to be the perfect amount, and trap the bottom leg with the nut. It can be difficult to keep the bottom leg taut (but not too taut so you don’t choke your wick), but you’ll get a feel for it.

If you have difficulty with the threaded boulon, try wrapping your mesh around the spare positive pin rather than the rolling pin.

Check for hot spots (you shouldn’t have any if your mesh is properly oxidized), and you should be good to go! Be careful and make sure that your mesh isn’t too fat, or else it will short out against the grounded chimney it all goes into.

Filling the tank is improbably simple. Just unscrew the top cap (keep one hand on the tank section so it doesn’t come off the bottom!) and fill it up! You can really just tip over a glass bottle in there. Filling is fast, simple, and it keeps with Genesis style atomizers being super easy to fill from the top.

On filling – It’s really easy to overfill and push excess liquid out from the airholes. The O-ring on the center post is ever so slightly lower than the O-ring on the tank section, and if you fill to that red O-ring instead of the center one, then you might get some excess out the air holes. It’s not super difficult to clear from the air holes, but since airflow comes in through the gaps between the fins, it can be hard to see until it’s already leaked on you.

And that is the only leaking I have encountered. That is it. It hasn’t leaked on me aside from when I do this and you just have to know where to look when you’re filling.

The center black O ring is *slightly* lower than the red O ring.
The center black O-ring is *slightly* lower than the red O-ring.


The In’Ax Mk III performs spectacularly. I’ve used 50/50 and 30/70 liquids with no dry hits at all. And the flavor. Especially at tighter airflow, the flavor is just stupendous. Opening up the airflow to six holes, you can get extremely satisfying restricted lung hits. The condensed chamber does the In’Ax incredible favors for flavors. Vapor production is persistently satisfying as well.

The airflow allows you to take tighter MTL draws than the K.Loud+G (with the same flavor on mesh) and up to restricted lung hits that you might be able to get out of Le Zephyr (although not as airy as LZ wide open).

The included drip tip is also fantastic. It’s a friction fit white Teflon drip tip and it stops all heat from going from the atomizer to your precious mouth, which is great because the In’Ax can get way hot.

I use temperature control exclusively and have done so for the last year or so. The In’Ax does a fabulous job of it. It’s really a fantastic tank for that because the opaque tank makes it a little difficult to gauge how much liquid you have left. After a while you just…don’t get vapor anymore. Pop open the lid, refill, and you’re good to go!

Living with the In’Ax is quite simple as well. Cleaning the coil is impressively simple, even keeping TC on. Just heat it up, run it under water, and gently brush it off with a flat head screwdriver. Repeat for a few minutes and your mesh build is as good as new!

The only part of the In’Ax that really eludes me is keeping the fins clean. They just like to pick up a bunch of lint from my pocket. A quick rinse will do it, but it is a little frown-inducing when that happens.


The In’Ax Mk III is a fantastic atomizer. It is a Genny through and through, though. By nature of the build you can’t get cotton in there functionally unlike the majority of the Gennies reviewed here. That said, if you’re not experienced with mesh, the build is quite simple for a first time mesh builder. Whether you’re comfortable with the material or willing to get into it, then this is a great atomizer to use.

There is, however, a sticking point with the In’Ax Mk III. It is expensive. It’s about $20 more expensive than I thought it would be at launch. Its price point puts it at the same price as the Hurricane, and its shortcomings should not be ignored despite its excellent performance. There is no glass tank available. In the stock configuration you can’t see your liquid levels. Gripsticks can be a pain in the butt to deal with, and it requires finesse to build it properly in the stock configuration. It can be easy to short out if your mesh touches the chamber going down the tube.

That said, the flavor is impeccable. The machining is well thought out and smooth (there are even flat bits in the top cap to let air escape when screwing down the top). It’s a handsome, small tank. It’s easy to build on (especially so if you get the boulon). The airflow control options are varied, simple, and flexible.

Who Is It For?

The In’Ax Mk III by Athea Mods is for someone who:

  • Wants a strictly mesh atty.
  • Prefers a flavor-based experience.
  • Enjoys an easy-to-live-with atomizer.
  • Likes to accessorize their atties.
  • Wants a durable atomizer.
  • Is looking for an “end-game” RBA.

Is the In’Ax Mk III expensive? It sure is, but is it at least 1.5 K.Loud+Gs? I would say so. Not just on performance, but living with it is so much easier (and the K.Loud+G was already quite easy to live with). Filling is a breeze, capacity is good enough for most of a work day for me. It’s easy to clean the build, and it lasts a good long while.

If you want super wide airflow, this is not a great atomizer for you. Same goes for people who have no desire to deal with mesh or get paranoid about their liquid levels. For me, it is a difficult atomizer not to recommend. I regularly take it to work, out to bars, and use it in the home. It has completely supplanted the K.Loud+G as my go-to atomizer. It’s the one I reach for if my apartment complex burns down, and I can’t recommend it enough even at the high price point.

The In’Ax Mk III can be found at VapinArt with a bunch of accessories as well!

I hope you enjoyed the review, thank you for reading! Let’s see that beautiful B Roll.

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Quick Fire Reviews: The Russian



There is (or was) a lot of hullabaloo surrounding the first versions of the Kayfuns to hit the market, and many criticize the Russian as just an expensive clone. I was told I was getting a Russian 91% (which I will hold as distinct from the KFL+) in this trade, but I didn’t. I got an original. They perform the same, but it does make me feel a little skeezy writing this review. They perform the same, though, and I feel like Kayfuns are still an important atomizer to look at in retrospect to see how much (if any) progress we’ve made. On to the nitty gritty!


  • Price: There is no way of knowing.
  • Height: 82mm (including integrated drip tip)
  • Diameter: 22mm
  • Volume: 5.0mL (stainless steel or polycarbonate tanks)
  • Tank Material: Polycarbonate or Stainless Steel
  • Airflow: Up to 2.5mm

It’s great to get back to this atomizer! I had had a variety of Kayfuns for a long time, and really loved them at the time. Have they held up? Let’s find out!


Building is not as easy as I recalled. The screws are smaller than I remembered, and I had to re-figure-out how to keep the wires trapped under the screws without destroying my build. Good times.

I didn’t have any wicking issues, which was the big thing once Kayfuns hit the scene (lack of dry hits, that is). The flavor was good but not great. I could tell that the chamber wasn’t as small as it could be – maybe something that indicates how spoiled I am by all the reduced chamber atomizers I’ve been using. It just feels like something is being lost a little bit. 2.5mm is also too open for this atomizer. I turned it down some, but it’s just fine and not anything to really write home about these days. It’s a lot like my Kabuki, just with less texture/novelty/liquid visibility.

The Russian/Kayfun/KFL+/R91 aren’t bad atomizers, not by a long shot. But unless you can find them for less than $50, I don’t think I could really recommend it (I need to pick up a Subtank Mini to compare to these). The integrated drip tip is a pain on the OG Russian/R91 first batch/KFL, because I feel like there are some out there that really outclass them.

Would I recommend buying one? Not at the brand new price points that a lot of these command (~$70.00). There are so many alternatives at this stage, that I wouldn’t really be super comfortable recommending these older Kayfuns. Your money would be better spent on an MCR 303 at this price zone.

As it happens when hooking up with an ex, it’s good but not as good as you remember it.

Quick Fire Reviews: The MCR 303


Despite having been vaping since 2013, there are some atties that I missed out on, or that I just want to revisit. These are quick reviews intended to touch on something that’s not the newest, not the shiniest, and likely has already had too much said on it. It’s always worth comparing these things to our modern atomizers and see what’s held up and what hasn’t!

I don’t believe I’ll put up any of my own pictures for these, just in the interest of getting the reviews done as quickly as possible.

Disclosure: I purchased this from a friend of mine a few states away for well under RRP, but even at their bananas sales price of about $40 this atomizer is screaming cheap.



  • Price: $40.00 for the multi month long Flash Sale that has been going on (130.00GBP regular price)
  • Height: 30.7mm
  • Diameter: 20mm
  • Volume: 1.8mL
  • Tank Material: PMMA or Stainless Steel
  • Airflow: 1mm, 1.5mm, or 2.0mm fixed depending on your choice (additional caps can be purchased)

Where the Sat22 was thoughtful, so too is the MCR 303 in different ways. The volume may be a deal breaker for some, but filling is so quick and easy that I didn’t find it to be much of an issue. This review was conducted with the 1mm top cap!


The MCR has a dedicated fill port (where you would just use the unused wick hole on the Sat), but you can either leave the port plugged or unplugged with a metal rod in the MCR. The rod gets threaded into the top cap of the MCR, and serves as a guide to get the top cap on in such a way that you don’t jank up your build due to the reduced build chamber in the cap being able to squash your wick and coil.

The flavor is lovely on this atomizer, though. It’s right there with the Sat22, but there is one important difference between the MCR and the Sat22: the MCR 303 can whistle.

I thought it wouldn’t be a problem – I’ve had some noisy atomizers before, but after using the Sat22 for a few weeks before getting into the MCR 303 the noise was driving me crazy. The flavor is bananas! It’s easy to live with! I can build it in a jiffy, fill in half a jiff, but the sound every time I used it was nooooo bueno. The diameter of the drip tip against the airflow was also introducing a little dysphoria (wide bore, tight airflow).

The 20mm diameter may also make people feel a bit odd, as well. I think it looks great on 22mm mods – I really didn’t think it looked bad on my DEV2+.

For those two issues that some may or may not have with the atomizer, there is one thing to keep in mind: this is a $40.00 Genesis style atomizer and it performs wonderfully. It is flavorful, warm, and I didn’t get a single dry hit. If you’re looking for something cheap to try for Gennies, absolutely check these out because who knows how long the prices will remain so low.