The Heron V2 by GP: Oh. Damn.


The Heron V2 is a tank that’s been around in its current form since December 2015, but has existed in one form or another since 2013, so it’s been around for quite a bit and may not be the newest and shiniest out there, but there are a lot of really great things here.

Heron Height Comparison 2


I purchased this tank for RRP from OughtVape. I ended up getting the bead blasted version because the normal version was out of stock.


  • Price: $140.00 (as tested $175.00)
  • Height: 43mm
  • Diameter: 22mm
  • Volume: 5mL
  • Tank Material: Stainless steel or Ultem
  • Airflow: 0mm-3.5mm


The Heron feels sturdier than I thought it would be. I knew it was all held together with O rings before I bought it, and I thought that they might have a tendency to just come apart whenever, but I haven’t had a single accidental separation with it on the DEV2+ in my pocket yet.

The build deck is…different. Not impossibly different; you can still parse out where things are supposed to go. You know where your terminals are, you know where to position your coil (over the airflow) and your usual bag of tricks will hold up because you (ostensibly) know your stuff like not keeping your coil against any metal.

The positioning of the screws was a little interesting to me, because it is the limiting factor on your coil size. They can’t really be wider than the coils, and diameter can’t get too crazy because you need to keep it lifted, secured in place, and in the right position over your airflow.

Build Deck

Filling up the thing is a standard affair – just pop everything apart upside-down (be sure the chamber cap doesn’t come with the top of your tank!) and fill. You can fill really quickly. Really really quickly.

Airflow control is smooth and easy to dial in. Sometimes when I get it too tight it whistles some, but that’s fairly infrequent.

Everything just feels good. Whether it’s taking the base apart to check your serial number to register or just cleaning it, the Heron feels great and it feels like a premium piece of machinery.

I find the Heron extremely attractive. I use the Ultem tank almost exclusively, and I really love how it looks. The gentle slope on the top is fantastic, and I thought the included Teflon drip tip would clash, but it just works in its own way. The aeolipile logo isn’t in your face, but it lets you know where this came from and who made it.

The Build

There are a variety of builds out there for the Heron, and a lot of people get them to work. I’ve only been able to get one build in there working to my liking, and that’s the only build I’ll be addressing.

Disassemble the tank completely. Remove the chamber cap and collar from the deck.

What you should be looking at.
What you should be looking at.

The first place to start is with the coil diameter. Because of the way wicking works out, your coil diameter is incredibly important. 2mm is the only diameter I have gotten to work consistently at any given liquid ratio (50/50 to max VG).

Once you’ve mounted your coil and made sure it’s raised from the deck and not shorting out on the posts (which can be difficult), pull some of your wicking material through. I prefer Fiber Freaks Cotton Blend Density 2. I just have a good time with it and prefer it some to regular cotton.

Pull your wick tails together and put them through the deck collar and screw the collar back on.

Build Deck & Collar 2
With the collar screwed on.

Stretch your tails out so they go past the collar. Take your flathead screwdriver and poke them down just to make a little divot so you have some contact with the deck to soak up the extra.

Get the wick a little wet with your liquid of choice to help collapse things down a little bit and press your chamber cap back on capturing the wick in the wick holes in the cap. They should fit inside perfectly.

This is the important part. If you’re struggling to get your cap on there, you’re probably using too much wick and should readjust or twist the tails again to get it fitting back into the cap.

It can be a tight fit.
It can be a tight fit.

Once your cap is secured, trim your tails as flush as you can to your cap and poke them just a little in there. Just a little so it’s still poking out some, but it will improve wicking dramatically.

Fill up your tank, take a few primer puffs, and you’re set to go!

I know Qorax Stan has a variety of build videos, one of which includes mesh (that I haven’t gotten around to trying), but if you want to check out some alternative builds, his channel is really worth checking out.


The Heron performs spectacularly. It really does. Because it’s a relatively short tank, it is a really warm experience. The flavor from the tiny chamber really shines through and makes some budget liquids taste fabulously.

When I was still figuring out the wicking, I got a lot of leaking and burbliness, but once I had it figured out it has run perfectly from full to empty every time. No moisture around the base, no leaking from the AFC, no nothing. Just warm, delicious liquid straight to my mouth.

I genuinely haven’t been happier with a tank since I moved from a Russian 91% to a Squape R. EVL Reaper included.

“Oh. Damn” is right for a tank that’s cheaper than those two.


In the world of authentic and high end atties, the Heron V2 is not a super expensive tank. $140.00 is, however, quite a bit in the mainstream market, and for many it is a decent hunk of change. In the higher end zone, though, the Heron absolutely wrecks the price-performance curve. The Squape R/R[S] is what has set this curve for me back in 2014. The Heron has all the things that made the Squape great and improves on size/volume ratio, volume in general, finer AFC adjustment, ease of filling, and solid TC.

I had had a couple of days where the chamber chimney would just come off with the tank section whenever I went to refill it, but that has seemed to stop. Nothing I did seemed to cause or stop it, so maybe it was just a fluke caused by O rings wearing in unevenly. It hasn’t come up again, but I did want to let you know about that.

The Heron is one of those tanks that really kind of invalidates the ones around it at their current prices. If the Hurricane dropped $20 at retail and had cheaper replacement bits, then it would be on par, same for the Reaper (except the replacement parts). The Pico is more attractive, but the performance doesn’t really justify the price now that the Heron V2 is out and about. It really disrupts the curve, and that’s always a good thing.

Who is it for?

Besides everyone I would have to say the Heron V2 by GP is for people who:

  • Want restricted lung or MTL vapes.
  • Who want a really warm, even hot, vape.
  • Are alright with vaping 5mL at a time.
  • Are looking for a strong TC RTA.

The Heron V2 really is a stupendous atomizer, and I can’t recommend it enough. Its nearest competition will be the Kayfun 5 by Svoemesto, but we’ll see if it lies on the line, falls off, or even contends! I wouldn’t hesitate recommending this atomizer to anyone.

Heron Ultem Heron Steel Heron Height Comparison Heron Height Comparison 2 Build Deck Build Deck 2 Build Deck & Collar Build Deck & Collar 2 Build Deck & Cap Base interior Atomizer chamber

The EVL Reaper RTA Review: Don’t Fear the Flavor


Disclosure: I purchased this atomizer for RRP after waiting for a few months for my list spot to pull through!

Let’s do some specs before getting into this:


  • Price: $200.00 (as tested: $270.00)
  • Height: 52mm/45mm (mini)
  • Diameter: 22mm tapering to 21mm
  • Volume: 3.5mL/2mL (mini)
  • Tank Material: Pyrex glass or titanium
  • Airflow: 2x0mm to 2×2.5mm
Oh no, there goes Tokyo
Oh no, there goes Tokyo

The EVL Reaper is a difficult atomizer to review. It is expensive. Real expensive. The base kit is $200 at the time of writing with the exchange rates. The full kit with drip tips, stand, and mini kit was $300 shipped. That’s a lot of dough for an atomizer.

But let’s break it down and compare it to the Hurricane: the Hurricane’s base price is around $170.00, and a pyrex kit is going to be $35.00 on top of that, so the base kit is already making a pretty good case for itself. In addition to that, you get a metal tank section as well, which costs $30.00 at the time of writing. You’re coming up a little ahead at this point compared to the Hurricane at the base kit price, so that’s pretty good.

The mini kit, pair of drip tips, and atomizer stand and shipping all come up to about $100 on top of that, which is toootally fine by me. All at once, it’s a big price to pay, but when you break it down to its components and compare it to the competition, then things are looking pretty good. If performance is comparable, then we’re in a pretty good place! I lose sight of the price breakdown pretty frequently, and that was contributing a lot to the difficulty of this review.

One last thing to note before moving on is that this atomizer is made from Grade 2 titanium and chemistry grade borosilicate glass.


I opened up the bubble mailer once it arrived and saw a really neat packaging setup.  There were two packages – a tall metal cylinder (a portent of what was yet to come) and a smaller puck of a tin.  I removed the plastic cap and the cylinder was sealed with a pull-tab lid!  I’d never had a canned atomizer before and eagerly tore it wide open.

There is a lot of cotton padding in there.  A lot.  A lot a lot.  There is probably about half a bag of Japanese cotton pads in there, and that largely ensured that my atomizer arrived safely.  Buried within the cotton were the atomizer, tank sections, and a bunch of spares.  I put the cotton and spares aside and set to work.

Everything inside except all the cotton. So much cotton...
Everything inside except all the cotton. So much cotton…

The Reaper is not a handsome atomizer. I’m going to get that out of the way right now. It looks a little lanky and doesn’t have anything exceptional going for it appearance wise. The Reaper is a beast purely of function. An aftermarket top cap would really do this thing a lot of favors, and if possible shortening up the base because he is a tall boy.

The airflow is controlled by two screws on the base, and this is a bit of a negative for me. I like easy to access airflow with discrete options (as one finds in the Squape R series and the Hurricane). This also contributes to the empty kind of space going on with the base – there isn’t much to break up how plain it looks.

The two airflow screws.
The two airflow screws.

The build deck is very clean. Mine was missing a screw when it came in, but John was quite responsive about getting it replaced and the next time I need an order he is throwing in a spares pack. That is one thing that doesn’t get a ton of space in a lot of my reviews – John, even months before I purchased the Reaper, was always responsive and willing to shoot the breeze with me about this atomizer, which was fabulous and a real treat for me. He even helped get some of the specs for me to put up in my earlier section!

The deck.
The deck.  It had been used by the time I took this photo.

Building is dead simple. Just mount the coil and drape your wicking material over the wicking holes! No need to jam anything anywhere or anything like that. It’s handled regular and twisted wire quite capably, and I’ve seen a few Clapton coils in pictures on Facebook that appear to be working quite nicely as well!

Filling up the Reaper is a simple affair, just twist off the top cap while holding the liquid flow control and fill it up as you do on your usual tanks. It’s quick and easy!

Everything threads together smoothly. There isn’t really a hint of crunchiness anywhere, which is nice, and the threading is large enough that it doesn’t really take much of a starter turn counterclockwise to find its catch anywhere.

Swapping between the standard and mini kits is pretty quick, too! Just unscrew the top cap, remove the long tank, swap in the chimney, and install the mini glass. If you don’t get the glass installed correctly, it can get screwed in a little crooked. Ensuring that it’s evenly and tightly installed will make life so much easier – if you don’t, you pretty much have to fiddle with it every time you refill.

The mini kit accessories.
The mini kit accessories.  Less blurry in real life.

The included drip tips are going to get a quick mention here. Well, one of them is at least. I put the vase drip tip in the Reaper and it hasn’t come out yet. It has fabulous mouthfeel and gets me just like the Sat22 drip tip does – it feels like a cigarette and the flavor is fabulous compared to a lot of the other ones I have. The rest of this review uses that drip tip as the material to gauge performance, so keep that in mind!


The performance is excellent, exactly what you expect from the high end. This is, unlike the Hurricane, a strictly MTL atomizer. You can get some fairly well restricted lung hits from it as it feels just a hair more open than the Squape R wide open, but not by a ton.

I’ve become a little spoiled with flavor – it’s hard to substantially improve flavor on the high end at this stage – it appears that everyone in the space knows what they’re doing and are able to get it right. It’s about the same as the Hurricane, just with less throat hit (the Hurricane is the reason why I dropped to 3mg in the first place), but it is perfectly balanced.

I thought, initially, that I should build the Reaper so that my coil legs were above the actual coil, so it looks like it’s kind of hanging down there, but I got some weird gurgling doing that. It wasn’t quite the right amount of distance away. Turning it right side up (as it were) eliminated the issue handily!

I did get some leaking initially. And it persisted, which I thought was odd, since I wasn’t getting any leaking anywhere else. Turns out I hadn’t adequately rinsed out the base to get rid of that excess liquid.

Temperature control has been…interesting. I’ve been spoiled by the In’Ax for a while with its spot on TC. The temperature of the Reaper is consistent but not <accurate. What I mean by that is I can get it working perfectly fine, but I have to crank my temperature way up (550F) for it to work, where the In’Ax is right in line with real readings. Even at this high setting, I don’t get burned hits or anything and it cuts out when the tank is empty.

Overall, the performance is quite good. It’s a sturdy tank that is providing a sturdy vape.


Everything about the construction is just…nice. It is just a series of little luxuries in plain packaging that is easy to live with. The Reaper doesn’t operate by any special rules, there are no unique considerations you need to make when building it. It just works, and it works damn well.

Who is it for?

The EVL Reaper is for:

  • Someone who wants an extremely flavorful vape.
  • Mouth to lung vapers.
  • People who want a tank of a tank.
  • Folks who don’t mind the looks of the setup.

Relative to the other stuff that’s out there, it performs really well, but I’m having a bit of a hard time recommending it. Between this and the Hurricane? Definitely pick up the Reaper. It’s just a smarter move with all the parts and bits you get for it. If you’re a VW vaper, the Squape R[S] still holds the crown for me on that end, and the price performance is just getting better all the time on it. The EVL Reaper is definitely an excellent tank and depending on the package you get it comes with a load of goodies (relative to the competition it comes with more goodies anyway), but most of all it performs great. It tastes great. It wicks like crazy, and is definitely a tank worth owning in its price stratum.

e: There are a few atomizers coming up in my reviews that may be worth waiting for. I had finished up my main thoughts on this review before really leaning into some other RTAs. A few atomizers (especially the Heron V2) is punching well above its pricing weight, so it may be worth holding off on snatching up an EVL Reaper. I’ll hopefully have that review done soon enough so you can decide for yourself!

Everything inside except all the cotton. So much cotton...

The mini kit accessories.

Reaper 7

The two airflow screws.

Reaper 5 Reaper 4

Oh no, there goes Tokyo

Oh no, there goes Tokyo

The deck.

Quick Fire Reviews: The Russian



There is (or was) a lot of hullabaloo surrounding the first versions of the Kayfuns to hit the market, and many criticize the Russian as just an expensive clone. I was told I was getting a Russian 91% (which I will hold as distinct from the KFL+) in this trade, but I didn’t. I got an original. They perform the same, but it does make me feel a little skeezy writing this review. They perform the same, though, and I feel like Kayfuns are still an important atomizer to look at in retrospect to see how much (if any) progress we’ve made. On to the nitty gritty!


  • Price: There is no way of knowing.
  • Height: 82mm (including integrated drip tip)
  • Diameter: 22mm
  • Volume: 5.0mL (stainless steel or polycarbonate tanks)
  • Tank Material: Polycarbonate or Stainless Steel
  • Airflow: Up to 2.5mm

It’s great to get back to this atomizer! I had had a variety of Kayfuns for a long time, and really loved them at the time. Have they held up? Let’s find out!


Building is not as easy as I recalled. The screws are smaller than I remembered, and I had to re-figure-out how to keep the wires trapped under the screws without destroying my build. Good times.

I didn’t have any wicking issues, which was the big thing once Kayfuns hit the scene (lack of dry hits, that is). The flavor was good but not great. I could tell that the chamber wasn’t as small as it could be – maybe something that indicates how spoiled I am by all the reduced chamber atomizers I’ve been using. It just feels like something is being lost a little bit. 2.5mm is also too open for this atomizer. I turned it down some, but it’s just fine and not anything to really write home about these days. It’s a lot like my Kabuki, just with less texture/novelty/liquid visibility.

The Russian/Kayfun/KFL+/R91 aren’t bad atomizers, not by a long shot. But unless you can find them for less than $50, I don’t think I could really recommend it (I need to pick up a Subtank Mini to compare to these). The integrated drip tip is a pain on the OG Russian/R91 first batch/KFL, because I feel like there are some out there that really outclass them.

Would I recommend buying one? Not at the brand new price points that a lot of these command (~$70.00). There are so many alternatives at this stage, that I wouldn’t really be super comfortable recommending these older Kayfuns. Your money would be better spent on an MCR 303 at this price zone.

As it happens when hooking up with an ex, it’s good but not as good as you remember it.

The izi RTA by Boostlab Review: A Dangerous Perversion


Disclosure: I purchased this mod directly from the manufacturer for RRP:

izi 1

The izi is a different kind of atomizer. At first glance, it looks like a modified Genesis style atomizer. It has the signatures of Minwoo’s design: PEEK chamber reducer, generous Ultem use, and MTL airflow. Where the K.Loud+G is the consummate Genny, the izi is a feverish twist on what we normally take for granted with this type of atty. But first, the specs:


  • Price: $145.00
  • Height: 30mm
  • Diameter: 22mm
  • Volume: 2.8mL
  • Tank Material: Ultem
  • Airflow: Up to 4×1.3mm or 4x1mm

At first glance, the izi has a shared heritage with the BF-99 by NoName Mods. My first thought upon seeing the build deck was This bad mama jama is screaming for a U-wick. Which is not totally incorrect – A U-wick is a profitable endeavor for this particular atomizer, but Minwoo some other ideas about builds to put into it. I ended up settling on neither for my favorite build, but more on that later.

The izi, much like the K.Louds, is a flavor focused atomizer. Tight to middling airflow with an extremely reduced chamber are designed to provide a warm, flavorful vape. The airflow confuses some, and I will attest to it being a hair on the peculiar side, since it’s easy to block off airflow (more on that later once again), but it is serviceable.

The most interesting thing about this atomizer, though, is that it is designed to have as much build versatility as possible. Let’s check a few out:

Cotton U-Wick

The cotton U-wick is, ostensibly, the easiest setup for this atomizer:

  1. Create a coil (TC or standard Kanthal, 2.5mm ID is the largest I can fit in there).
  2. Install the coil on the deck (super simple with the channels cut into the positive and negative blocks).
  3. Remove the ultem tank section from the rest of the atomizer.
  4. You cut (or tease off) a long strip of cotton (Japanese or otherwise), just enough to reach the bottom of the tank on both sides.
  5. Feed your cotton up through the tank section, then into the coil, and back into the other wick hole.
  6. Replace your tank section, prime your coil, and give it some test fires to make sure everything is okay.
  7. Fill your tank, replace the chamber reducer set to the airflow you prefer (4x1mm or 4×1.3mm)

And you’re off!

The flavor is good. Very good. Much warmer than most RTA styles that we see these days (even more than the Pico), and the flavor is great. It’s a little jarring, actually, to have such such a warm vape with the cotton “flavor” (really kind of properties of cotton and how it impacts the flavors you’re using). It’s not bad at all, just different. Good different.

Now for the cons:

If cotton is the only material in this atty, it gets a little hinky kinda quickly. Once you get to the dregs of the tank, it doesn’t want to wick very happily anymore. If you leave it on its side, it will definitely leak out. The most egregious negative for an all-cotton build, though, is that the airflow gets totally choked off by having a bunch of cotton up in there, which is a huge bummer! There is no appreciable difference between the two airflow sets on the reducer, which really takes points away from this setup.

And it’s not a super durable build – I don’t want to have to go poking in and out of the tank section every few days to make sure I got all the old cotton out and to poke new cotton in there. It’s good, don’t get me wrong, but it is not quite ideal.

Mesh U-Wick

This is the best guide I have encountered thus far for setting up a mesh U-wick (although I would recommend doing 5+ liquid burns to make sure everything is properly oxidized and insulated). I use #200SF mesh since that will wick just about any liquid under the sun, and you’re good to go!

The flavor is excellent once again, and quite wet like Le Magister was. The heat is impeccable like the K.Loud+G (although perhaps a little cooler than the updated version of the +G). The flavor is great, and your airflow is definitely not obstructed since you don’t need to have cotton stuffed up in there.

Installing the build is tricky, since you have to navigate the mesh into the wick holes first, and then mount the coil/mesh combo on the deck without causing any kinks or anything. It’s also a leaky sum’bitch. Don’t leave it on its side, because it will leak all over the place very quickly.

Mesh is also good, but not ideal. Don’t leave the house with it.

Hybrid Builds

Hybrid builds are the way to go. Even prior to release, Minwoo had posted an extensive build video showing some of the builds, and his preferred one (mesh stick on cotton drivers descending into the tank) is a good vape.

It does have its issues, though. Whenever I got up in there to replace my cotton drivers, I bent and kajiggered the heck out of my mesh! Not cool. It tasted great, it didn’t really leak, but it also was not easy to live with.

My preferred build is to drop two hollow #200SF drivers. These will wick just about anything, and keeping them hollow ensures that everything moves around smoothly (I generally prefer “slugs” that have no hollow core, but this is what worked best for me). The next bit is where things get weird:

  1. Get your wire, and bend it into some zigzags. Remember, the izi has a very small chamber, so you need to be careful about whether or not you short out your build a bit.
  2. Install it into the deck. If things deform a little bit, don’t worry, it’s simple to clean it up by just bending some things into place. All mine end up looking pretty crooked, but it works great.
  3. Stuff some cotton under the zigzag coil. Get a pretty good amount jammed up in there, but don’t push super hard, it should be simple to get fresh cotton in there.
MS Paint: The Height of Science.
MS Paint: The Height of Science.

And you’re good to go! It tastes great, leaves airflow open, and doesn’t leak one whit. It combines all the best from the other builds, and provides the kind of experience that I knew this atomizer was designed to deliver.

izi 3

Ignore the grungy cotton! I haven't had time to freshen it up!
Ignore the grungy cotton! I haven’t had time to freshen it up!


The izi is a fabulous atomizer – but it takes some experimentation to really really find what works. It took about a week and four different builds (not to mention all the rewicks that went into it) to find what worked best for me, and it may not be the best for you – if you really want mesh to be the atomizer material, my preferred guide isn’t going to work for you. I’m certain it can be done, but I wasn’t quite able to find one that satisfied me.

That aside, I do love this atomizer. It really is fabulous. It’s different, and I love to see Boostlab move away from more established atomizer designs. It shows that there is plenty of room to innovate and still get an exceptional result.

Who is it for?

This is an easy question to answer, but difficult to find someone who might truly love this atty. It’s for someone who:

  • Loves a hot vape.
  • Wants a decidedly mouth-to-lung atomizer.
  • Who is okay with having an atomizer that they have to discover.

It’s that discovery bit that’s the hard part on this one. The izi needs that because it’s not really like anything else – conventional solutions won’t work in an unconventional atomizer. And I love it.

e: I spoke with Boost Lab and it looks like they’re making another batch!  If you’re looking for one, keep an eye on their Facebook page!

izi 2


The Pico RTA by The Vape Review: Big Review, Small Atty

This is a very special review! Due to the fact that the Pico RTA has a lot of things going on (mesh, fiber, and clearo coil compatible) I have decided to split it into multiple pages! Here is the index:

  1. Impressions and Introduction to the Pico RTA.
  2. Specs & the Playing Field
  3. Cotton Build Review
  4. Mesh Build Review
  5. CLR Coil Review
  6. Use Case Review & Conclusion

You can skip to the last page for as much of a TL;DR as I’ll be able to provide!

Impressions and Introduction

I received this RTA second hand by purchasing it from a cohort of mine. It came with the CLR Adapter, but sadly I was not able to secure a micro chamber.

Pico 1
The Pico RTA, CLR adapter, and spares.

The Pico RTA is an interesting atomizer. I had seen Damian’s review, and that was about it. It provided some useful information as far as building goes, but it didn’t really provide me with the kind of information which interests me (I don’t believe Damian is a TC vaper), but it is definitely a good primer and I highly recommend checking it out.

When I first opened up the package, I saw the PMMA was fogged, which made me so sad! But when I filled it up with my liquid, it became crystal clear, which made me so happy, so be on the lookout if it looks like yours arrives fogged. The whole atomizer is also very smooth, texturally. It’s so smooth. I keep touching (borderline molestering) this atomizer because it’s so smooth.

It really is a handsome tank, as well. I adore the way it looks, especially on top of my DEV2+. I almost like its looks as much as I do the K.Loud+G, but with the Ultem tank section and drip tip on the way, you may not have to wait long for the two to be equally attractive.

Pico 8

The AFC can get a little hairy – it’s a little whistley if it isn’t aligned just so, and sometimes it doesn’t always want to move if the atty is screwed all the way down, and it requires some lubrication because it’s all held together with o-rings, but once it’s all lubed up, it has smooth action yet stays where you put it.

I found the top fill can be a little tricky – you need to have the right pace for filling it, but you need to get it sealed back up quickly, because it can leak all up on you, which makes you sticky and gross. It’s not a pro or a con, but there is a bit of a ritual involved where you have to figure out how hard you need to squeeze your nipple-top bottle (eye droppers can work, but much too slowly to always get out leak-free) to get out of there without a mess.

The fill ports are a little on the small side.
The fill ports are a little on the small side.

A point of order before we move forward – much ado has been made about the “wasted capacity” because the wick holes are so high on the Pico. This is a hair overblown, as the wick holes are as high off the bottom of the tank as the Hurricane, so they just seem higher because the atomizer is so short. Granted, the chamber is further in from the wall than the Hurricane’s, because it is smaller, but you’re really not losing much at all if your wicking method doesn’t manage to reach all the way down to the bottom of the tank.

This is definitely an atty that takes some getting used to. Getting the TC to work takes more than one attempt. It seems a little weak at first, so I turn the temp way up (to around 500*F/260*C), and it performs fine. After letting it sit for 15 minutes or so, I recalibrate and then the TC is spot on and I can drop the temperature to my normal range.

Building this has a bit of a learning curve as well. Because you can’t get into the deck connected to the 510 on your ohm meter/mod, you need to free hand it a bit. It’s not much of a challenge; after a handful of builds, it’s only a few seconds longer than being able to use a 510 stabilized atty.

These two things cut into convenience some, but so much so that I wouldn’t recommend it? Let’s find out.