I’ve had it for nearly a week, and I thought I would post my review of the Dani Extreme V2+.
- 40W maximum output.
- 0.2-3.5 Ohm resistance range.
- Spring loaded positive contact.
- Temperature control profiles available for NiFe30 (ResisTherm/Dicodes Wire), Ni200, Tungsten, Stainless Steel, and Other where you input a value based on the TCR of the wire.
- Available in 18350, 18490, and 18650 tube sizes (if you purchase this, do yourself a favor and get the 18350 tube with both extensions (single and double) to accept the other battery sizes.
- Size: Cell size + 39mm
The tl;dr for this is: the Dani Extreme V2+ is in the most literal possible terms incredible. There are some negatives, and it has a fairly niche use case.
The first thing that really gets me about this mod is exactly how small it is. A lot of places will just give you a bunch of mm measurements, which is useful, but I like mine more for mods that will accept various batteries (that’s why I did it). The DEV2+ is smaller than an Atmomixani Nemesis at every battery size.
I just want you to wrap your mind around that. A regulated mod with an absurd suite of features (that I will get into later), let alone any regulated is smaller than the go-to mechanical mod for millions worldwide, and the Nemesis isn’t big at all. That boggles my flipping mind (although to be fair, the Wizard’s Apprentice II from Mark Bugs is a few mm smaller).
I’ll start with the hardware aspect of this first, because the feature set folds more into my use case review which I like to save for last.
The hardware is bananas. It’s hefty, but portable. This feels substantial, I don’t worry at all about buttons or batteries rattling, top caps coming off, or anything. This feels like it was made for a warzone, but is still elegant and clean looking. It’s extremely handsome, and I’m glad there’s a seam where the battery tube screws together, because otherwise it would look all too plain.
The threads aren’t buttery, they’re not scratchy, but they are deliberate. The threads are a tool to keep the sides of the tube together, and they let you know they are a) doing their job and b) are not going to get cross threaded or damaged any time soon.
The 510 connector is rock solid. All my tanks have been very happy getting put on top of it, and much like the battery tube threads, they are substantial. The positive contact is so firm, that you need to be as deliberate as the threads when screwing something on. It’s not hard, it’s not difficult, but you need to want it. The emphasis on smooth threading for so long made me a little shocked at how solid it was! Nothing moves that I don’t want to move and I love it.
Let’s talk about the button.
The button is awesome. It’s firm, and because it’s kind of a pain to turn off the mod completely, I just drop it in my pocket. That’s all it takes. It’s nice. It takes a little effort, but not a conscious one. It just goes when you want it to and doesn’t when you don’t. I haven’t had any issues with it firing on its own in my smaller backpack pockets or in my pants pocket. It has a nice satisfying feel to it. I was afraid that since it was small and rounded, my finger would get annoyed with it after a while, but no indentations on my fingertips or weird pinchiness.
The button is also your entryway to the menu system, which I was a little afraid of. The PBusardo video didn’t make it look easy, and having been in the P3 beta, I was ready for the worst.
It’s actually quite nice. Commands are fairly consistent, and the short manual included is very well detailed, so if you have a general idea of what you’re trying to do, it will be a huge help. Also,
READ THE MANUAL
It’s not a pain, but it’s easier than stumbling around the menus because the screen is a little small and so not everything is as descriptive as it could be. It’s not bad, just a fact of life, though some may make that into a bit of a big deal.
The menu lets you do a lot. A lot. A lot a lot a lot a lot. More things change than I honestly need to change, but most of it is behind an “Extended Function” menu option, so you don’t even need to deal with scrolling past that day to day.
And some may balk at the idea of having a single button menu system, but the best thing about this mod, what I will be talking about for the rest of the review is this: It’s impossibly consistent. You just set your settings to what you want when you load in a new coil/wire type and you leave it. You don’t have to touch it any more. I’m using the same settings on the same coil on the same atty as when I got it last week and I haven’t had to fiddle with anything once.
That’s absolutely bizarre coming from DNA temperature control devices. In my pocket, my DNA 40 calibration gets thrown off like crazy, and I have to fiddle with it every hour or so when I want to go take a vape break. I literally have not gotten into the menu system since the weekend because I haven’t needed to (I still don’t totally know my way around the menu, but keep that a secret). It’s doing exactly what I want it to every time. This is the only TC mod I have where the TC doesn’t feel like it’s controlled by a dumb device – it feels like it should; natural and consistent. I can’t even tell when the power starts cutting out to maintain temperature.
The only negatives I can really come up with are that the screen is a bit small, mine is already a little scratched up from being in my pocket with keys, the menu can be a little cryptic if you don’t read the manual (READ THE MANUAL), the screen doesn’t turn on when you wake up the mod, and it’s a bit of a pain if you’re paranoid to turn the mod off because you need to go through the menu every time.
Before I get to who this is for, let’s turn the clock back a little bit to 2013.
Remember 2013? I sure do. Provape dominated higher end regulation. A single button menu system, smooth power output, and consistency that you hadn’t seen anywhere else before. Every time you hit the button, you knew what you were going to get because it’s a goddamn Provari. Every press of the button, every puff, every single time you were going to take a drag you knew what was coming. No delay, no variation. Just what you set. The Dani Extreme V2+ does that but better. Way better. It entirely outclasses the P3, let alone the 2.5. It has higher output, holds your temperature, and has a significantly simpler menu.
Remember mech mods? They were smaller than regulated mods, had high output, but you didn’t get consistent output. The mechs had a great size and output advantage, but for the most part in 2013, we were using 10A batteries that were generally limited to 42W. At full charge. And you had to worry about battery safety, shorts, and all sorts of nonsense. The Dani Extreme V2+ has the same power output, but it is consistent. I got mad because I thought I had to turn my mod back on, but the battery died. I had no idea that my battery had run out.
This mod is everything that we wanted then and outpaces everything we have now. It is a tube, and I had forgotten how much pocket space I have with a tube after using boxes for over a year. I had forgotten what simple button placement is like without having to roll the mod around in my hand. It’s way easy to index, and you know where to put your hand every time.
So…who is this for?
If the DNA 200 appeals to you, and you want to capitalize on all the features available, you’ve got those here with the exception of custom screens. This even outpaces the DNA 200 because you can adjust it to use whatever material you want on the fly. You don’t have to connect it to the computer, you’re not limited to 8 profiles if you swap around a lot. It’s really great. So if features are your thing, this is the chip for you, no computer needed. Or used.
If you don’t adjust your settings very much and are willing to deal with a little setup, then this is also the mod for you. In fact, I’ve found myself settling into that kind of pattern because I just don’t need to touch anything. I’ve got my mod turn on set to 3 clicks, and my menu turn on set to 5. Shit, I don’t even check the screen anymore except to check what my battery voltage is because I don’t need to. Everything else is working fine.
If you love tubes and want it to be regulated with temperature control, this is the mod for you.
If you were disappointed with the Provari P3, this is the mod for you. It’s significantly shorter than the P3, since the P3 is 18mm taller, has double the power output and incredible temperature control.
If you want the best temperature control on the market right now, then this is the mod for you.
This mod is not for you if:
- You don’t want to get into TC and VW is all you want.
- You are satisfied with a DNA 200 and the form factor.
- You have a hard time reading smaller fonts.
- A single 18650 is too little battery life for you (I get roughly 10 hours out of the LG poopy browns). I have enough space in my pockets now for this, a unicorn bottle, and a spare 18650 in a silicon sleeve, so I don’t worry.
The temperature control on this mod is better than the DNA 200, but is it 50% better? 100% better to command the price difference between this and many of the DNA 200s on the market? That is a really tough call. The 2 year warranty does speak volumes about the quality of product they have, and if anything goes wrong that could save you a lot of trouble in the future. The experience of using it is much better than I thought it could be. If someone held all my mods off the edge of a skyscraper and asked which one I would save if I had to choose, it would absolutely be this one, so I suppose framed in that way it is worth the price difference. Over a similarly priced anything else? I would take the DEV2+ in a heartbeat.
The entire mod just reeks of those things that I value most – consistency, accuracy, and reliability. I will say this, however; the DNA 200 has its own charms that the DEV2+ doesn’t (or can’t) execute on.
Also, bad news for those of you who prefer boxes and fat wallets: Dicodes are coming out with box mods and a widely available modder’s board very soon, so expect to see more Dicodes-based mods floating around!